Foster parents provide temporary homes for animals prior to adoption. Providing foster care is a wonderful and personal way to contribute to saving homeless pets. Cats have very high euthanasia rates in local shelters. Foster homes allow Cat’s Cradle to transfer animals out of these facilities and find new homes for them. Every Cat’s Cradle foster family is part of a lifesaving network.
Why do Cats Need Foster Care?
There are several possible reasons:
Foster care can help save a cat’s life when a shelter is full.
Some cats don’t do well in a shelter environment because they are frightened or need a little extra care.
Newborn kittens that need to be nursed or bottle-fed need foster care. Most shelters do not have the staff to give round the clock care to a very young kitten.
Some cats need time to recover from an illness or injury before adoption; others are recovering from abuse or neglect.
Whatever the reason, these kitties need some extra TLC before they can be adopted. Providing foster care for a few weeks or months can be a lifesaving gift for a cat or kitten. It can also be a life-changing experience for you and your family.
Would I be a Good Foster Parent?
If you want to do something to help the cats and kittens, fostering can be a flexible, fun and rewarding volunteer job. Here’s why:
It’s more flexible than volunteer jobs that require you to show up at a specific time for a certain number of hours.
It’s a great way to enjoy a pet if you are not in a position to make that lifetime commitment right now.
Fostering can be an excellent option for singles, families, and retired persons. Most foster parents have very full schedules and full time jobs. We also fosters who are counselors, teachers, soccer moms, correction officers, bank officers, waitresses, small business owners, biologists, accountants, and everything in between. They do all have one thing in common…the love of animals. We can’t wait for you to become a part of our lifesaving community!
What Skills are Needed?
It’s best to have some knowledge about companion animal behavior and health. We provide training for you, complete with a foster manual and a foster coordinator for you to contact with questions or concerns.
Some of the cats most in need of foster care are those that require a little extra help or some training. Just by getting to know the kitty, you’ll help Cat’s Cradle and the forever home learn more about her personality prior to adoption.
What About Food and Medical Care?
All cats are vetted prior to entering a foster home. There are wellness clinics for foster homes and medical bills are covered by Cat’s Cradle. Typically, the foster home will provide the food and litter and will drive their foster to get vaccinations, attend pet outings, and vet appointments.
What About When It’s Time to Say Goodbye?
Giving up an animal that you’ve fostered, even to a wonderful forever home, can be difficult emotionally. Many adopters post updates and photos of their new kitty. It often helps to focus on the lives saved. Try and remember that, as one foster is adopted, room is made for another kitty to be transferred out of a high risk pound or shelter and into your care for fostering. Knowing that you were a part of saving a life and helping your foster transition into a loving home is tremendously rewarding.
But is it Fair to the Animals?
Some people are reluctant to foster animals because they are concerned it is unfair to take in a cat, establish a bond and then allow the animal to be adopted to another family. Being in a foster home can be a lifesaving bridge for a stray or frightened kitty. It gives the cat a chance to get used to life in a house. The cat learns that people can be kind, that food is available, and that there is a warm, secure place to sleep.
How Do I Giving Fostering a Try?
When you are ready, just fill out the two forms below and we will put you in touch with our foster program coordinator. We will discuss what types of cats you are comfortable with fostering. Maybe a momma with a litter of kittens? Bottle babies? One or two adult cats? Or a small family of rowdy teenagers? We have something for everyone!
Foster parents make an enormous difference in the number of cats and kittens euthanized each year because shelters just don’t have space for them.
Bottle babies are very young kittens who have been orphaned or abandoned. They are incredibly cute, but are also very, very delicate. It is very important that whoever provides their care knows how to do it and understands just how fragile these little ones are.
Warmth and Bedding
Bottle babies must be kept warm and secure. They can rapidly lose body heat which may endanger their health. They should be kept in a cat carrier on a heating pat approved for pets when you are not caring or feeding them. The heating pad should be wrapped in several layers of towels so the kittens are never laying directly on the pad.
The top layer of their bedding may be a soft fleece blanket instead of a towel. The carrier should be large enough for the kittens to have an area to move away from the heating pad if they get too warm. The kittens will need the heating pad until they are three to four weeks old.
The carrier should be covered with a towel or a light blanket. Keep the carrier in a warm, draft-free room where it is secure from other pets. Check the carrier and bedding several times daily and clean up any messes. The bedding should be changed at least once per day, more often if it is soiled.
The ideal body temperature of a kitten is 100 to 102°. The kittens should be checked several times a day to ensure they are warm. Any kitten who feels cold or who is unresponsive should be warmed immediately.
Never attempt to feed a cold kitten. Wrap the kitten in several layers of towels and lay securely on an approved heating pad. Turn the kitten from side to side every five minutes. If necessary to stimulate blood flow, gently massage the kitten with hand-rubbing. If the kitten does not respond within 20 to 30 minutes, contact a veterinarian immediately.
Never feed cow’s milk to kittens. Cow’s milk does not have proper nutrition for kittens. It will also cause diarrhea which can be a life-threatening condition for kittens. Kittens should only be fed an approved kitten formula, such as KMR. Hoskins, which is a homemade formula is also a good option.
3 oz. goat’s milk
3 oz. water
4 oz. plain, full-fat yogurt
3 egg yolks
The formula will be good for about 48 hours, if refrigerated. If the formula is left out for more than two hours, it must be discarded.
KMR Powdered Formula
KMR may be purchased at pet supply stores. Use 1 part formula to 1 parts water. You can refrigerate any leftover formula. If formula is left out, discard after two hours.
Formula that has been in the refrigerator must be warmed to just above room temperature. Place the bottle in a bowl of shallow water, then heat in the microwave for ten seconds. You may also place the bottle in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes. If mixing up a fresh batch of KMR powder formula, use warm water.
Before feeding the kittens, always test the temperature of the formula by placing a few drops on your inner wrist to be sure it is not too hot. Always wash your hands well with soap and water before and after each feeding. Bottles should be cleaned thoroughly before each use.
When bottle nipples are brand new, you will need to cut a hole in the top. Cut an X in the tip of the nipple using small, sharp scissors. You may also burn a hole in the nipple using a large needle. Heat the needle with a match, then poke it through the nipple tip. It may take a few attempts to make the hole the correct size.
Once the hole is made, test it by placing the nipple on a bottle formula and turning the bottle upside down. The formula should drip slowly out of the home. If the hole is too big, the kittens will ingest too much formula too fast. If it is too small, they will have to work harder to eat and may not eat as much as they should.
To prevent the possibility of spreading viruses between the kittens and other pets in your house, keep a “kitten gown” (a sweatshirt, a robe, etc.) in the kittens’ room to wear during feeding and handling of the kittens. You may also wear gloves if you wish and remember to always wash your hands well before and after feeding your bottle babies.
Never feed a kitten on its back. The kitten can ingest formula into its lungs and drown. The kitten should be on his stomach in a position similar to how he would lay next to his mother to nurse. You may try holding his kitten upright swaddled in a warm towel or have the kitten lay on a towel in your lap. Experiment with what position works best for you and the kitten.
Turn the bottle upside down and allow a drop of formula to come out. Place the bottle nipple in the kitten’s mouth and gently move it back and forth, holding the bottle at a 45-degree angle to keep air from getting into the kitten’s stomach. This movement should encourage the kitten to start eating. If at first you don’t succeed, wait a bit, then try again.
The kitten will usually latch on and begin to suckle. If the bottle appears to be collapsing, gently remove the nipple from the kitten’s mouth and allow more air to return to the bottle. Let the kitten suckle at his own pace. If a kitten refuses to suckle, try stroking the kitten’s back or gently rubbing her forehead. This stroking is similar to momma cat’s cleaning and it may stimulate the kitten to nurse. If this doesn’t work, try rubbing a bit of Karo Syrup on the kitten’s lips. If the kitten still doesn’t want to nurse, contact a veterinarian immediately.
A kitten should eat about 8 milliliters (mls) of formula per ounce of body weight per day. For example, a kitten who weighs 4 ounces should eat about 32 mls of formula per day. To determine how much to give at each feeding, divide the total amount of formula per day by the number of feedings. For example, if you’re going to feed 32 mls per day and do 7 feedings per day (about every 3 hours), that would mean feeding 4.5 mls per feeding.
Nursing bottles are marked with measurements, so it’s easy to know how much you’re feeding the kittens. Please note that some bottles use ml for measurement, while others use cubic centimeters or cc. They are the same: 1 cc = 1 ml.
Using a kitchen or small postal scale, weigh the kittens daily to calculate the amount of formula they need. Keep a log listing daily weights and amount of formula consumed at each feeding.
Newborn kittens, up to 1 week old, should be fed every 2-3 hours; by 2 weeks old, every 4-6 hours. Once they are 3 weeks old, they can be fed every 4-6 hours. Continue to follow the rule of 8 mls of formula per ounce of body weight per day, as described above, to determine the amount of food the kitten should be eating.
If you are feeding multiple kittens, feed the first kitten until he stops nursing, then begin feeding the next kitten, and so on. Once you have fed all the kittens, feed the first kitten again, and repeat with all the kittens. Usually one to three nursing turns will suffice. When a kitten stops nursing, he/she has had enough. Do not overfeed the kittens because it can cause loose stools and diarrhea. A well-fed kitten’s belly should be round, but not hard and distended. Smaller or weaker kittens may eat less per feeding and will need to be fed more often.
Kittens need to be burped, just like human babies. Lay the kitten on its stomach, on your shoulder, or in your lap. Very gently pat his back until you hear a little burp. You may need to burp a couple of times per feeding.
Young kittens may suckle on each other. This is normal, just ensure they are not damaging the fur or skin of their littermates. If the suckling is causing problems, you’ll need to separate the kittens.
Weaning may begin at 3 ½ to 4 weeks of age. Start by offering the kittens formula on a spoon. Once they are lapping off the spoon, try putting some formula in a saucer. As they master lapping up the formal out of the saucer, you can gradually add a small amount of canned food to the formula in the saucer, making a gruel.
Slowly increase the amount of canned food, adding more food and less formula. Some kittens catch on right away, while others may take a few days. To ensure the kittens are getting enough food, you may need to continue bottle feeding several times a day, until they are eating well on their own. Be sure to feed them until they are full, but not to overfeed them.
Monitor the kittens’ stools to make sure the kittens are tolerating and digesting the gruel mix well. If the kittens have loose stools, reduce the amount of canned food and increase the formula until their systems have adjusted. As the kittens adjust to the gruel mix and you are adding more canned food to their diet, you can also add more water to the formula mix. If you are using KMR formula, add an extra measure of water when preparing the formula. Instead of 1 part formula to 2 parts water, mix 1 part formula to 3 or 4 parts water. For the Hoskins formula, add an extra ounce of water to the recipe.
As kittens eat more food and less formula, you will need to have a bowl of fresh water available to them at all times to keep them well-hydrated. At this time, you may also add dry food to their diet. Add some of the watered-down formula mix to the dry food to entice the kittens to eat it. Gradually reduce the formula and let them eat the food dry. Again, keep watch on the kittens’ stools to make sure they are tolerating the food well. If diarrhea or constipation persists with the change in diet, contact your veterinarian.
Weight and Hydration
Weigh your kittens daily; preferably at the same time each day, using a postal or kitchen scale. Kittens should gain about ½ ounce every day or 3 to 4 ounces per week. By eight weeks, most kittens weigh about 2 pounds. Enter their daily weights in the logbook. If the kittens are not gaining weight or are losing weight, contact your veterinarian.
A well-fed kitten should be properly hydrated. To test a kitten’s hydration, pull up on the skin at the scruff of the neck. The skin should bounce back easily. If it doesn’t bounce back, or goes back down slowly, the kitten may be dehydrated. If the kitten appears dehydrated, contact your veterinarian.
Elimination and Litter Box Training
Young kittens cannot eliminate on their own. A momma cat will clean her kittens, stimulating them to urinate and have a bowel movement. As their human caregiver, you now have the honor of performing this duty. After each feeding, use a warm, moist cotton ball, tissue, or soft cloth to gently rub and clean the kitten’s lower belly, genital, and anal area.
The kitten should begin eliminating within a minute. Kittens should urinate after each feeding and have a bowel movement one to four times a day. Do not continue to rub the kitten for more than a minute or two, since this may irritate their delicate skin. Gently wash the kitten after she is done eliminating using a clean, damp, soft cloth. Record the kitten’s elimination type and frequency in the logbook.
When the kittens are between three and four weeks of age, kittens can be introduced to the litter box. Use a small cardboard or plastic litter box with just enough clay litter to cover the bottom. Don’t use clumping litter. Adding a used cotton ball (from when you helped them urinate) to the box will help them get the idea of what to do next. Put the kittens in the box, letting them get the feel of the litter. Natural instinct will generally prevail and the kittens will begin scratching, investigating, and within a few days, using the box.
A Clean Kitten is a Happy Kitten
After feeding, clean any formula, urine, feces, or other messes off the kitten using a clean, soft, warm, damp cloth. This action simulates how the momma cat would clean the kitten. If more cleaning is required, you may use a wetter washcloth dipped in warm water to loosen up the caked-on messes in the kitten’s fur. Do not use soap or pet shampoo directly on the kitten. If you must use a shampoo to clean the kitten, add one or two drops of shampoo to a cup of warm water, then use the cloth dipped in this mixture to clean the kitten. Rinse the cleaned area with another cloth dipped in clear, warm water.
Gently dry the kitten with a soft towel. Do not allow the kitten to become chilled. Once the kitten is clean and dry, place her back in the carrier on the covered heating pad, which should be covered with clean layers of bedding.
Kittens’ ears should be clean and free of dirt. If the ears are dirty, gently clean the area with a Q-tip. You may need to dampen the tip in warm water. Do not use an ear-cleaning solution, because it can be harmful to the kitten. Only clean the outer area of the inside ear, just the part you can see. Do not push the Q-tip down into the ear. If the ears are extremely dirty or you see signs of ear mites (specks that look like coffee grounds), contact your veterinarian.
Kittens may also have some discharge in or around their eyes. To cleanse this area, gently wipe around the eye with a warm, damp, soft cloth. If the discharge continues, is cloudy, or the eyes are gooped shut, clean the eyes as directed above, and then
contact your veterinarian for treatment options.
All kitten bedding should be washed separately from other household laundry using detergent and ¾ cup of bleach per load. To clean carriers and litter boxes used for the kittens, use a mixture of ¼ cup of bleach per gallon of water. You may add a tablespoon of laundry soap to the wash water. Do not use any cleaning agents that contain ammonia or are not approved to mix with bleach, since this may cause hazardous fumes. Be sure the litter boxes and carriers are completely dry and free of bleach fumes before putting them back with the kittens.
A veterinarian should be consulted for kittens showing any of the following symptoms. Do not medicate a kitten without consulting a vet first.
Kittens weigh about 2 to 4 ounces at birth. They are blind, deaf, and totally dependent upon the mother cat for survival. Some developmental milestones:
At seven to ten days, their eyes begin to open. Kittens eyes are fully open by twenty days. Their eyes remain blue until they are six to seven weeks old
They begin crawling at 1 to 20 days.
They will begin to play with each other at three to four weeks.
Solid food can be introduced by three to four weeks. Their first juvenile teeth are cut and litter box training can begin.
At six weeks, kittens are well-coordinated, running, climbing, and full of mischief.
Kittens are ready for their first vaccinations and spay/neuter surgery at eight weeks.
Physical and emotional contact with you is extremely important for growing and developing kittens. Early cuddling and gentle petting helps kittens bond well with humans and allows them to grow up feeling safe and secure with their human family. Playing with the kittens using a variety of toys helps stimulate their minds and develops their motors skills.
For even more information on Caring for Bottle Babies, watch the videos below:
Many neighborhoods and rural areas have feral cats. Feral cats are part of the domestic cat species, but are not socialized to humans, so are not adoptable. Cats having been living around humans for more than 10,000 years, typically living in groups called colonies. They form strong social bonds with their colony members and usually stay within certain territories.
When You See Cats in Your Yard
Like all animals, feral cats see shelter and food, often making their home in close proximity to humans. This means you may occasionally see feral cats in your yard, and we understand that not everyone finds this desirable. On the other hand, you may want the cats to hang around, so we’ve also included tips on making areas attractive to cats.
Feral cats usually cannot be socialized, so cannot be adopted. This means they do not belong in shelters or pounds because they are almost guaranteed to be killed. Instead, feral cats should be trapped, neutered or spayed, vaccinated, and then returned to their colony.
When these steps are coupled with a Trap-Neuter-Return program and ongoing care, it is possible to successfully co-exist with your feline neighbors.
This is an extremely humane and effective way to stabilize feral cat populations. In TNR, feral cats are humanely trapped and then taken to a veterinarian where they are spayed or neutered and then vaccinated.
Any kittens and socialized cats are adopted into loving homes. Feral cats who are healthy are returned to their colony. These cats are provided ongoing care by volunteers.
TNR works. It stops feral colonies from breeding and stabilizes the population. No more kittens. The lives of the colony’s feral population are improved. With time, the colony size will decline. Mating behaviors, such as yowling and fighting, end.
Cat’s Cradle believes feral cats have a right to life, and we spent a week documenting the trap-neuter-return process of feral cats for you to enjoy in this video! Trapping specialists Lana Mohler and volunteer Teresa Kappes TNR up to 1,000 cats a year. If you or someone you know needs help with TNR, please contact us for help. And if you would like to join our lifesaving team, please visit us at our Adoption Center to apply to volunteer, or go to catscradleva.org/volunteer !
Watch the video below to see how well TNR works!
The Vacuum Effect
The traditional approach to feral cat – the approach still used by many animal control agencies and animal shelters – is catch and kill. This method does not keep an area free of feral cats for long. Additionally, catch and kill is cruel and inhumane, and creates a vacuum in a colony area. Attempts to “relocate” colony cats to a rural area or farm also creates a vacuum, where other feral cats will move in and take advantage of newly available resources.
These new colony occupants will continue to breed and form a new colony. Catch and kill or relocation just create an endless and costly cycle. This is known as the Vacuum Effect and is a documented phenomenon which exists in a variety of animals throughout the world.
Easy Solutions to Cat Behaviors
Cats Getting into Trash
Cats are scavengers and will dig through trash looking for food.
Make sure trash can lids are a tight fit. Exposed trash bags or loose lids will attract both cats and other wildlife.
Check with your neighbors to see if anyone is feeding the cats. If they are, ensure they are doing so on a regular schedule.
Begin feeding the cats yourself if no one else is. Feed the cats on a set schedule, during daylight hours and in an out-of-the-way place. Feed amounts which can be eaten in less than thirty minutes. This helps ensure the cats don’t go hungry and will help keep them away from the trash.
Paw Prints on the Car
Cats sit on cars because they like to be on high ground.
Gradually move cats’ feeding stations and shelters away from the cars. This will discourage them from climbing on the cars.
Purchase a car cover.
Try some of the deterrents listed in the sections below.
Cats are Digging in the Garden
Cats dig. It is their natural instinct to dig and deposit in loose or soft soil, mulch, moss, or sand.
Scatter fresh lemon or orange peels in the soil or spray with citrus-scented fragrances. Other deterrents include fresh coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, and vinegar. Oil of lavender, citronella, lemongrass, and eucalyptus also help deter cats.
Plastic carpet runners, placed with the spike side up and lightly covered with soil will also help deter cats. These can be found at an office supply or hardware store. Another option is to place chicken wire firmly into the soil. Be sure to carefully roll the sharp edges under.
Plant rue, an herb that repels cats. You can also sprinkle dried rue throughout the garden.
Use Cat Scat™, which is a cat and wildlife repellent system consisting of plastic mats cut into smaller pieces which are pressed into the soil. These mats have plastic spikes which do not harm the animals, but which discourage digging. They are available at www.gardeners.com.
Incorporate branches, wood or plastic lattice fencing into the soil. These may be disguised by planting flowers or bushes into the openings. You may also embed pinecones, wood chopsticks, or sticks with dull points deep into the soil with the tops exposed. Place these about eight inches apart.
Use river rocks to cover any exposed soil in flower beds. This helps discourage cats from digging and also helps deter weeds.
Create an outside litter box by tilling soil or building a sandbox in an out-of-the-way spot in the yard. Be sure to keep it clean and free of any deposits.
Cats are Lounging in my Yard or on my Porch
Cats stay close to their food source and in their territory. Neutering and spaying feral cats will help reduce their tendency to roam.
Use cat repellent fragrances. Spray or apply these liberally around the tops of fences, around the edges of the yard, and on any area or plant where the cats dig.
Install a motion-activated water sprinkler or an ultrasonic animal repellent.
Cats are Sleeping Under my Porch on in my Shed
Cats are looking for warm, dry shelter away from the weather.
Provide shelter such as a small doghouse. Or, if the cats are part of a colony, as the colony manager to provide shelter for the cats. Shelters should be hidden to help ensure the cats’ safety. The shelters should also be placed to help guide the cats away from unwanted areas.
Seal or physically block the location so the cats cannot enter. Use lattice or chicken wire to seal entry points. Ensure there are no cats inside before sealing the location. Check closely for kittens, since mother cats will hide the kittens when foraging for food. This is especially important during spring and summer which is prime kitten season.
Here are a couple of ideas for easy shelters and feeding stations:
Feeding the Cats Attracts Insects and
Cats should be fed on a schedule and under proper guidelines. Leaving food out may attract unwanted animals.
Keep the feeding areas clean and free of any leftover food and trash. Take any food up after thirty minutes or so.
Feed the cats at the same hour daily. This should be done during daylight hours. Feed only enough food for one sitting. All remaining food should be removed after about thirty minutes. If someone else is feeding, please ask them to follow these guidelines, too.
Cats are Yowling, Fighting, Spraying, Roaming, and having Kittens
These are mating behaviors. Cats display these behaviors when they have not been neutered or spayed.
Implementing a good TNR program will help. Neutering, spaying, and vaccinating the cats will stop these behaviors. Once neutered, male cats will no longer fight and compete. They will not spray and roam. Females who are spayed will not yowl and will not have kittens. Once sterilized, they are no longer producing hormones within three weeks. After this, the behaviors typically stop all together.
To help the urine smell, spray the entire area with white vinegar or with natural enzyme products such as Nature’s Miracle®, Fizzion Pet Stain & Odor Remover®, or Simple Solution®. These are all available at pet supply stores.
Cat’s Cradle would like to thank Alley Cat Allies for contributing to this post.
A stray I was feeding just had a litter. Can Cat’s Cradle take the kittens?
We’re sorry, we seldom have room to take in kittens. We recommend you have them altered and find homes for them. We may be able to help you get them spayed or neutered, as well as the mama cat. You can also read about how to rehome cats on our Rehoming page.
I can’t catch the stray I’m feeding, and I want to get him neutered. Can you help?
Yes, we provide trapping assistance within our service area. Please see our Spay/Neuter Page
Where can I find low-cost spay/neuter services for a cat or a dog?
Can I get low cost vaccines and health care for the stray I took in?
The Shenandoah Valley Spay Neuter Clinic offers low-cost vaccines and testing at the time of spay/neuter surgery. For follow-up vaccines, we recommend you go to your regular veterinarian. Occasionally shelters or Animal Control agencies will have vaccine clinics; watch for these in the paper.
Declawing — should I or shouldn’t I?
We do not recommend it. It can cause permanent pain and behavior difficulties with your cat. We do not de-claw, or allow our adopters to de-claw.
I have to get rid of my cat — can you find him/her a new home?
We would be glad to advise you on how to either be able to keep your cat or how to best find a new home. First, please the information on our Rehoming page.
My cat is not using the litter box — what can I do?
First make sure your cat doesn’t have a urinary infection — check with your vet. Sometimes cats won’t share a litter box, or won’t use it if it isn’t pristine.
Where can I find advice on cat and dog behavior?
We recommend contacting Dr. Ruth Chodrow, a Harvard-educated Animal Bahaviorist. She can be reached at 540-886-9371. Dr. Chodrow graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University and obtained a Master of Science in zoology from the University of Massachusetts. She earned her V.M.D. degree from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Chodrow is a member of the American Veterinary Medical Association, the D.C. Academy of Veterinary Medicine, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, and the Blue Ridge Veterinary Medical Association.
We also recommend Michelle Carter, animal training and behavior expert. Michelle owns “Leader of the Pack” Dog Training and serves the Staunton, Waynesboro, Augusta County and outer lying areas of Virginia.
I’m allergic; what can I do?
Many allergy and asthma suffers can still keep their cats — try “Simple Solution” anti allergy product from a pet supply store such as PetSmart. You just wipe it on your cat with a cloth once a week — the cat likes it because it’s just like being petted. It’s non-toxic too. Of course you should run this by your doctor as well!
I just found out my cat is FIV+ (feline immunodeficency virus positive). What should I do?
Cats with FIV can enjoy a normal lifespan with no apparent health problems due to the virus. FIV is not a death sentence.
Cats mostly acquire FIV through deep bite wounds from other cats with FIV, as the virus is present in the blood and saliva of infected cats. The chance of FIV being passed from one domestic cat to another domestic cat in the same household is approximately 1-2%. Cats who are allowed to go outside are more at risk of being bitten by an unknown feral or stray FIV+ cat than by a friendly FIV+ cat living as part of the family.
Good care, quality food, and lots of love can help your FIV+ cat enjoy a long life. A healthy diet along with annual vaccinations will ensure many years of good health.
Here at Cat’s Cradle, we regularly adopt FIV+ cats–approximately 3-4 per year. We continue to hear from our adopters of FIV+ cats, who are always gracious that we gave these cats a chance, and report that their cats are happy, healthy, and enjoying life.
Anicira offers high quality, low cost surgery for cats and dogs. Located in Harrisonburg, VA, the Veterinary Center does not have income or residency requirements. Click above or call 540-437-1980 for more information.
For information on low-cost clinics in other areas, go to spayva.org.
IF YOU CANNOT AFFORD THE CLINIC’S REGULAR PRICES…
If you live in Harrisonburg or Rockingham County, you may qualify for financial assistance from Anicira through a grant or other Anicira fund. Call 540-437-1980 or contact us for more information. If you do not qualify for Anicira assistance, please contact us for help.
If you live in Augusta or Page Counties, please contact us.
If you are willing to trap strays, we can lend you traps and tell/show you how to trap them for spay/neuter surgery and rabies vaccination. We may be able to provide you with trapping assistance or we can refer you to other area trapping resources, as available. This service is only available if you are willing to continue caring for these un-owned or un-tamed cats. Note: As of spring 2017, we are working hard to clear a long waiting list of sites needing us to trap and transport feral cats. If you want to address ferals quickly, it will be best if we can lend you traps and tell/show you how, or we can try to refer you to other area trapping resources while we clear our waiting list.
TRANSPORTATION AND OTHER SPAY/NEUTER HELP
If you need the loan of a carrier or trap, or if you need help with transport to/from the clinic, please contact us.
All our cats and kittens are fully vetted and altered prior to adoption. You can meet them in person at our Adoption Center in the Harrisonburg PetSmart!
You can also view a list of our cats and kittens currently in foster care. If you see a young foster kitten that is not quite ready for his or her new home, you can still contact us to initiate the adoption process.
Consider opening your heart to a cat posted for rehoming! If you see a cat you are interested in, contact the owner for adoption information.
Falling in love? Fill out our adoption application below and send it in to us. We’ll let you know when you’re approved and you can come in and pick up your new furrever friend!
We do double-check that all adoptions are safe and good match, so bear with us while we check references, and engage in dialogue with you. If you prefer to complete a printed copy and send it to us, here it is.
Adobe Reader is required to view and fill out the adoption application. You can download the free software here.
Everything ready to go, or wondering what you’ll be agreeing to if you adopt? Check out the Adoption Contract.
grants to help!
Cat’s Cradle is delighted to announce that we have received a generous grant from the BISSELL Pet Foundation to support our spay/neuter and adoption programs. The BISSELL Pet Foundation is a charitable 501(c)(3) non-profit organization with a mission to help reduce the number of homeless pets in shelters and to support organizations dedicated to the humane care and treatment of animals.
A selection of our adoptable cats can also be visited anytime at the Harrisonburg Petsmart during their store hours of:
Petsmart address: Market Square East Shopping Center, 1671 E Market St, Harrisonburg, VA 22801 EMAIL
For All General, Adoption, Spay/Neuter Assistance, and Volunteer Inquiries: email@example.com